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Home » Expedition to peak Lenin height of 7134 meters. Fixed dates. Bishkek - Bishkek. Pamir traverse. 2016.

I. Lenin peak. 11 - 31 July.

Routes of ascensions of climbers in Kyryzstan.

Optimum route of an ascention to Lenin peak.

Base camp “Achik-Tash” is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From Base Camp we head over the Puteshestvennikov (Traveller) Pass 4400 meters above sea level. The ascent usually takes 1 - 1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully.
The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier at 4100 meters above sea level and hike to camp № 1 at 4400 meters above sea level above sea level. From Camp № 1 4400 meters above sea level, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face).
At 5000 meters above sea level we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree and snow slope leads to Camp 2 “4200”. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun.
Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak 6148 meters above sea level. Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples. The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb.
To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks. Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to
he west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelnay Pass at 6000 meters above sea level above sea level. It is here that we will make camp  № 3. 
From camp № 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters above sea level. From Camp III “Skovoroda” 5300 meters above sea level we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 3) at 6400 meters above sea level.
We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit. The summit at 7134 meters above sea level meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China.
Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakorum.

The guaranteed fixed dates from 11 on July, 31st «Expedition Lenin peak»

Ascention under direction of experienced mountaineering guides!

Day 1. July 11. Arrival in the town of Bishkek, meeting in airport, transfer to hotel, accommodation. Overnight.
Day 2. July 12. Transfer to airport “Manas”, flight to the town of Osh, arrival in Osh, meeting in airport. Transfer: Osh - settlement Gulcha - pass Taldyk of 3615 meters above sea level - settlement Sary-Tash of 3200 meters above a sea level - natural boundary Achik-Tash of 3600 meters above sea level (275 km). Arrival in base camp “Achik-Tash”, accommodation in the tents. Overnight.
Day 3. July 13. Acclimatization an output on peak of Petrovskii 4830 meters above sea level, returning in base camp "Achik-Tash". Preparation for an ascention in base camp "Achik-
ash".
Day 4. July 14. Hiking: base camp "Achik-Tash" - camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 5. July 15.  Acclimatization ascent on peak of House 4700 meters above sea level, returning in camp 1. Preparation day for climb in the camp 2.
Day 6. July 16. Hiking: Camp of 1 4400 meters above a level - camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level.
Day 7. July 17. Hiking: camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level - Camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level.
Day 8. July 18. Hiking: camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level - camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 9. July 19. Hiking: camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level - base camp “Achik-Tash” of 3600 meters above sea level.
Days 10 - 12. 20 – 22 of July. Rest day or reserve days.
Day 13. July 23. Hiking: base camp "Achik-Tash" - camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 14. July 24. Hiking: Camp of 1 4400 meters above a level - camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level.
Day 15. July 25. Hiking: Camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level - Camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level.
Day 16. July 26. Hiking: Camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level - an ascention to Lenin peak of 7 134 meters above sea level. Returning in camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level.
Day 17. July 27. Transition: camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level - camp of 1 4400 meters a hell a sea level.
Day 18. July 28. Transition: camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level - base camp “Achik-Tash” of 3600 meters above sea level.
Day 19. July 29. Transfer: base camp "Achik-Tash" - Ош (275 km). Arrival in Osh, accommodation in hotel. A free time. Overnight.
Day 20. July 30. Transfer to airport, flight to the town of Bishkek, arrival in Bishkek, meeting in airport, transfer to hotel, accommodation, Free time. Overnight.
Day 21. July 31. Departure from Bishkek.

The price includes “The Full package» and additional services of the program:

Experienced high altitude guide,
Accommodation in high-altitude tents in high-altitude camps 2 on 5300 meters above sea level and in camp 3 on 6200 meters above sea level (on 3 persons in one tent),
Group equipment: a kernmantle rope (if necessary) gas cylinder, gas stove, high-altitude kitchen ware,
High-altitude products,
Boundary zone permit, OVIR registration, visa support (if necessary);
Flight Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek and back (please note that local airlines allow only 15 kg free of charge luggage! Extra kilo costs about Euro 0,5),
Accommodation in high-altitude tents in high-altitude camps 2 on 5300 meters above sea level and in camp 3 on 6200 meters above sea level (on 3 persons in one tent),
Payment of sanctions to visiting of a zone of the bound control and registration in OVIR,
Meetings - accompanying service at departure in/from the airport, 
Transfer Osh - base camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh, 
Accommodation with a breakfast (no more than 4 nights) in hotels of the town of Osh and Bishkek, 
Lunch on road Osh - base camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh,
Rent of radio station (for group 3 persons),
Registration in rescue squad,
Ecological payments.

The included services of the program «The Full package» in base camp "Achik-Tash" 3600 meters above sea level:

Accommodation in tents (on 2 persons), in each tent - electric illumination, wooden floorings with mattresses and electricity,
Breakfast, lunch and dinner in day,
Guide consultations services,
Use of a dining room, a toilet, a left-luggage office, a bath and a shower,
The first-aid set of first medical aid,
An electricity 220V, permanent source of electricity.

The included services of the program «The Full package» in camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level:

Accommodation in tents (on 2 persons), in each tent - wooden floorings with mattresses,
Breakfast, lunch and dinner in day,
Guide consultations services,
Use of a dining room, a toilet, a left-luggage office,
The first medical aid, consultation of the professional doctor,
An electricity 220 V, 50 HZ from the generator in the evening day, in the general dining room.

Cost of services of high-altitude porters (in Euro):

Base camp "Achik-Tash" - base camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level - 2 for 1 kg.
Camp of № 1 4400 meters above sea level - camp of №2 5300 meters above sea level - 4 for 1 kg.
Camp of № 2 5300 meters above sea level - camp of №3 61100 meters above sea level - 4 for 1 kg.
Camp of № 1 4400 meters above sea level - camp of №3 61100 meters above sea level - 8 for 1 kg.

Photos given by tourist company "Aksai Travel".