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Home » Lenin peak 7134 meters an climbing. Osh - Osh. Ridge Zaalaiskiy. Mountains Pamir. 2016.

Lenin peak. I variant.

Mountaineering Federation of Kyrgyzstan.

Optimum route of an ascention to Lenin peak.

Base camp “Achik-Tash” is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From Base Camp we head over the Puteshestvennikov (Traveller) Pass 4400 meters above sea level. The ascent usually takes 1 - 1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully.
The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier at 4100 meters above sea level and hike to camp № 1 at 4400 meters above sea level above sea level. 
From Camp № 1 4400 meters above sea level, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters above sea level we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin.
We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree and snow slope leads to Camp 2 “4400”. There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding.
It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak 6148 meters above sea level. Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples. 
The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks.
Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir.
From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelnay Pass at 6000 meters above sea level above sea level. It is here that we will make camp № 3. From camp № 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible.
From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6200 meters above sea level.
From Camp 2 “Skovoroda” 5300 meters above sea level we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters above sea level.
We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit. 
The summit at 7134 meters above sea level meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakorum.

The recommended base program to Lenin peak.

Day 1. Arrival in the town of Osh, transfer to hotel, accommodation. Overnight.
Day 2. Transfer: the town of Osh - settlement Gulcha - pass Taldyk of 3615 meters above sea level - settlement Sary-Tash of 3200 meters above a sea level - natural boundary Achik-Tash of 3600 meters above sea level (275 km).
Day 3. Acclimatization an output on peak of Peter 4830 meters above sea level, returning in base camp "Achik-Tash". Preparation for an ascention in base camp "Achik-Tash".
Day 4. Hiking: base camp "Achik-Tash" - camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 5. Акклиматизационный an output on peak of House 4700 meters above sea level, returning in camp 1. Preparation for an output in camp 2.
Day 6. Hiking: Camp of 1 4400 meters above a level - camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level.
Day 7. Hiking: camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level - Camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level.
Day 8. Hiking: camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level - camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 9. Hiking: camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level - base camp “Achik-Tash” of 3600 meters above sea level.
Day 10. Reserve day.
Day 11. Day of rest.
Day 12. Preparation for an ascention in base camp "Achik-Tash".
Day 13. Hiking: base camp "Achik-Tash" - camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level.
Day 14. Hiking: Camp of 1 4400 meters above a level - camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level.
Day 15. Hiking: Camp of 2 5300 meters above sea level - Camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level.
Day 16. Hiking: Camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level - an ascention to Lenin peak of 7 134 meters above sea level. Returning in camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level.
Day 17. Transition: camp of 3 6200 meters above sea level - camp of 1 4400 meters a hell a sea level.
Day 18. Transition: camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level - base camp “Achik-Tash” of 3600 meters above sea level.
Day 19. Day of rest.
Day 20. Transfer: base camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh (275 km). Arrival in Osh, accommodation in hotel. A free time. Overnight.
Day 21. Departure  from Osh.

Notice: 
Bring to notice, that the provisional base program is recommended only for your successful ascention. At an ascention there can be unforeseen situations with a command, with weather changing. The base program includes some additional days of rest and reserve day. In the rest you can use the schedule of an ascention and acclimatization.

Dates of arrivals from the town of Osh in base camp «Achik-Tash» in 2016:

July: 2, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31.
August: 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27.

Dates of departures from base camp «Achik-Tash» in the town of Osh in 2016:

July: 3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20,  22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31.
August: 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31.

The price includes “The Full package» of the program:

Accommodation in high-altitude tents in high-altitude camps 2 on 5300 meters above sea level and in camp 3 on 6200 meters above sea level (on 3 persons in one tent),
Group equipment: a kernmantle rope (if necessary) gas cylinder, gas stove, high-altitude kitchen ware,
High-altitude products,
Payment of sanctions to visiting of a zone of the bound control and registration in OVIR,
Meetings - accompanying service at departure in/from the airport, 
Transfer Osh - base camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh, 
Accommodation with a breakfast (no more than 2 nights) in hotels of the town of Osh, 
Lunch on road Osh - base camp "Achik-Tash" - Osh,
Rent of radio station (for group 3 persons),
Registration in rescue squad,
Ecological payments.

The included services of the program № 3 «The Full package» in base camp "Achik-Tash" 3600 meters above sea level:

Accommodation in tents (on 2 persons), in each tent - electric illumination, wooden floorings with mattresses,
Breakfast, lunch and dinner in day,
Consultations on a route,
Use of a dining room, a toilet, a left-luggage office, a bath and a shower,
The first-aid set of first medical aid,
An electricity 220V, a constant source.

The included services of the program №3 «The Full package» in camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level:

Accommodation in tents (on 2 persons), in each tent - wooden floorings with mattresses,
Breakfast, lunch and dinner in day,
Consultations on a route,
Use of a dining room, a toilet, a left-luggage office,
The first medical aid, consultation of the doctor,
An electricity 220 V, 50 HZ from the generator in the evening day, in the general dining room.

In cost of the program №3 «The Full package» it is not included:

Cost of the Kyrgyz visa,
International flights,
A food above camp №1 and in town,
Alcoholic drinks,
All personal charges (for additional payment of luggage, service in the rooms of hotels, medical charges,   the insurance, cargo in planes, etc.),
Services of the mountain guide, porters on a route,
 Hire of personal and group climbing equipment for ascentions.

Cost of additional services (In Euro):

Rent of high-altitude tent on the program - 65 for tent.
Rent of the established high-altitude tent in high-altitude camps (camp №2, №3) - 60 for 1 night.
Given tents, basically, Arctic Fox Silicone and Fox Explorer.
High-altitude products above base camp "Achik-Tash" and base camp №1 (the set of products on the program is given) - 100 1 set.
Accommodation at tents with (breakfast, lunch, dinner) - 45 in day.
A food on the person: breakfast 10, dinner 15, supper 15.
Accommodation at tents - 10 in day.
Gas (Kovea 230 ml) - 7 1 gas cylinder.
Rent of a kernmantle rope on the program - 65.
Rent of high-altitude kitchen ware - 20 for the program.
Rent of a gas stove - 20 for the program.

Cost of services of the high-altitude guide on the program (in Euro):

1 guide for 1 person - 1000.
1 guide for 2 person - 1200.
1 guide for 3 person - 1350.

The note:
The guide works with mountaineers during the program, start from base camp "Achik-Tash" of 3600 meters above sea level. The guide is not given for the certain days of an ascention, only on the program.

Cost of services of high-altitude porters (in Euro):

Base camp "Achik-Tash" - base camp of 1 4400 meters above sea level - 2 for 1 kg.
Camp of № 1 4400 meters above sea level - camp of №2 5300 meters above sea level - 4 for 1 kg.
Camp of № 2 5300 meters above sea level - camp of №3 61100 meters above sea level - 4 for 1 kg.
Camp of № 1 4400 meters above sea level - camp of №3 61100 meters above sea level - 8 for 1 kg.Natural boundary Achik-Tash. 1993.The Kind on a glacier and Lenin peak from a ridge on which is located pass of Travellers. An old way for 4200.1993 year.Camp 1 in vicinities of a moraine of a glacier of Lenin. 1993.The Helicopter on a moraine of a glacier of Lenin. 4200 meters above sea level. 1993.

Photos:
"Aksai Travel" and Aleхander Petrov.