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Peak Komsomol.

Mountaineering in Almaty.

“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity” 

John Muir. «Our National Parks».

Summit ascent to Peak Komsomol in Almaty.

The peak of Komsomol is located in mountains of Zailiysky Ala Tau and has height in 4376 meters above sea level. Till 1935 the top had the name Low-Almaty or Almaty. The mountain effectively towers over Almaty rocky and ice top.
Visually it seems above all a number of the located mountains. Top the most popular with the Almaty climbers. The first ascension on it was made in August, 1929 by the physical education teacher of school No. 10 Grigory Beloglazov.
On July 9, 1935 to top there ascended 249 people. In three days the top was renamed by the decision of the government into peak of Komsomol. In it is the tribute of recognition of merits of Komsomol in the organization of this campaign.
The secretary of a city town committee of Komsomol Konstantin Komarov (and the head - V. M. Zimin) was the commissioner of the headquarters of an alpiniada. In several days to peak of Komsomol there ascended 14 Komsomol activists headed by the first secretary of regional committee of Komsomol Kaysar Tashtitov.
Since 1997 the tradition альпиниад on peak of Komsomol, interrupted for some time, was renewed, and since then almost annually at the beginning of July mass ascension on this beautiful peak is carried out. In 1997 the peak was renamed into peak Nursultan, in honor of the first president of the Republic of Kazakhstan.
The name the peak was given in honor of birthday of the first President of the Republic of Kazakhstan, Nursultan Nazarbayev. The decision was made by participants of mass rise. Mass rise became good tradition. 
The Southern Ridge of Komsomola Peak (4,376 m, 2A). From the Chimbulak ski resort, go up a zig-zag path along the slope that leads to the Talgars-kiy pass (this can also be reached by ski-lift). Turn south on the moraine, where you can pitch your tents near the lake.
Then go to the left side of the Bogdanovicha glacier moraine and cross the glacier and snow slopes until you arrive at the rocky southern ridge, which will take you to the top (4-5 hours from the lake; 2 hours for the descent).
The view is simply fantastic. This route was first climbed by L. Misovskiy in 1930.

The peak Komsomol.Peak Komsomol.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol in North Tien-Shan mountains.Peak Komsomol.

Authority:
"Zhetysu is the Land of  tourism”. A Tourist Guide-book. Almaty.  2003. 68 p. and the material for this page is taken from the printed edition. http://mountains.tos.ru/talgar.htm

Photos
Alexander Petrov.