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Home » Ascention in Central Tien-Shan. The most northern top on a planet more than 7000 meters. 2016.

Pobeda peak. Small package.

Mountaineering expeditions on the mountains Central Tien-Shan.

Expedition on peak the Pobeda of 7439 meters above sea level on a classical route through pass Dikiy.

Pobeda Peak is a tough mountain. Firstly, it is world’s ultimate northern mountain of seven-odd thousand metres high (seventhousander). Secondly, meteorological conditions of the region are so unpredictable and severe that it deservingly gave a peak a nick-name of “Treacherous Corner”. Even in the summer time, as a bolt from the blue, a snow storm may burst out here - with the winds blowing at 150km/h and nil visibility - and then, again all of a sudden, it may stop.
In winter this region is even more severe. And there is nothing for mountaineer to do here in the winter time. Only once, over nearly 70-years long history of exploration, in 1990, mountaineers got to the top of Pobeda in winter, after which event half of the expedition members had to spend quite a time at Sklifasovsky hospital in Moscow, and, as you can guess, not at all for having a rest there.
Till up to 1969, the number of those who succeeded and stayed alive and those who died on the peak was nearly equal. Only after 1969 mountaineers have outscored the deadly statistics. But it does not mean that the mountain has become easier to climb. It is all just about better tactics and some other novelties that helped the case. Of course, more advanced contemporary gear contributed to that, too.
Nonetheless, it happens nearly every season that somebody dies in the area – either of falling down or of altitude sickness or of hypothermia. Most often it happens due to human mistakes and stupidity. Still such objective hazards as avalanches and bad weather should not be discarded, too.
But, as Russians say: ”It is not God, who makes pottery”, - people went to Pobeda before, they keep going there now and, surely, will keep going there in the future. The only wish is: God forbid them of dead on the mountain. Good mountaineer is a live mountaineer.

In it to year the base camp «Southern Inylchek» will work from July, 3rd till August, 30th.

The program of an ascension on peak the Pobeda.

1 Day. Bishkek.
Arrival in Bishkek, meeting at airport "Manas", transfer to hotel (30 km), arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation, overnight.
2 Day. Bishkek - base camp "Karkara”.
Transfer: town of Bishkek - gorge Boom – town of Balykchi – town of Cholpon-Ata – natural boundary of Char-Kuduk – base camp "Karkara" (450 km). Arrival in base camp "Karkara" of 2200 meters above sea level, accommodation in tents. Overnight.
3 Day. Base camp "Karkara" - base camp "Southern Inylchek".
Flight by the helicopter: base camp "Karkara" - base camp "Southern Inylchek" 4000 meters above sea level.
4 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek". 
Acclimatization walks, preparation for an ascension in base camp «Southern Inylchek”.
5 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
Acclimatization walks, preparation for an ascension in base camp «Southern Inylchek».
6 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek" - camp №1 4200 meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №1 on a glacier the Zvezdochka.
7 Day. Camp №1 - camp№2 5100 meters above sea level.
Hiking in camp №2.
8 Day. Camp №2 - camp №3 5800 meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №3.
9 Day. Camp №3 - base camp "Southern Inylchek". 
Hiking in base camp «Southern Inylchek».
10 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
11 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
12 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek" - camp №1 4200 meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №1 on a glacier the Zvezdochka.
13 Day. Camp №1 – Camp №2 5100 meters above sea level.
Hiking in camp №2.
14 Day. Camp №2 - camp №3 5800 meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №3.
15 Day. Camp №3 - camp №4 6400 meters above sea level.
Hiking in camp №4.
16 Day. Camp №4 - base camp "Southern Inylchek". 
Hiking in base camp «Southern Inylchek».
17 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
18 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
19 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
20 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek" - camp №1 4200 meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №1 on a glacier the Zvezdochka.
21 Day. Camp №1 - camp №3 5800 meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №3.
22 Day. Camp №3 - camp №4 6400 meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №4.
23 Day. Camp №4 - camp №5 6918 (vicinities of peak Vazha Pshavela) meters above sea level. 
Hiking in camp №5.
24 Day. An ascension top of peak the Pobeda of 7439 meters above sea level - camp №5. 
After an ascension to peak Pobeda returning in camp №5.
25 Day. Camp №5 - camp №1. 
Hiking in camp №1.
26 Day. Camp №1 - base camp "Southern Inylchek". 
Hiking in base camp "Southern Inylchek".
27 Day. Base camp «Southern Inylchek» - base camp "Karkara".
Flight by the helicopter in base camp "Karkara". Transfer to Bishkek (450 km). Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation, overnight.
28 Day. Bishkek.  
Free day in Bishkek.
29 Day. Bishkek. 
 Departure from Bishkek.

Flights by the helicopter in July, August, 2016:

July: 3, 8, 10, 15, 17, 22, 24, 27, 29, 31.
August: 4, 5, 6, 7, 12, 14, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28.

The price of the program includes «Small package “Expedition on peak the Pobeda”:

Helicopter flight from base camp “Karkara” to base camp “Southern Inylchek” and back back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs 3 EURO/kg).
Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at base camp “Southern Inylchek“.
Consultancy service of local guide.
Consultancy of doctor.
Registration with local Rescue Squad.
Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at base camps.
Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service.
Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascent.
Usage of fixed ropes on the route.
Change of air-flight and railway tickets.
Frontier zone permit.
Official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed).

In the price of the program «Small package» Expedition on peak the Pobeda” it is not included:

The cost of Kyrgyz visa;
International flight.
All optional deviations from the main itinerary.
Beverages and meals not included in main menu.
All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.).
The rent of individual equipment.

The price of services of the high-mountainous guide on base camp «Southern Inylchek» (in Euro):

1 person – 1800 per person.
2 person – 1000 per person.
3 person – 750 per person.

Additional services in base camps "Karkara" and " Southern Inylchek " (in Euro):

Rent of high-altitude tent - 65 for the program.
Accommodation in tents (in camps №1, №2, №3) - 60 for a night.
Gas bags of firm “Kovea” (230) - 7 for ballon.
International call by satellite telephone - 3 for 1 minute.

Note: 
The price of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending.

Recommended clothes and equipment for an ascension on peak of Pobeda:

Clothes, footwear - the standard high-altitude complete set (should be warm and qualitative then well and comfortably you feel at an ascension).
Equipment - tent high-altitude, sleeping bag, karemat (futon), torch, gas ballon, dishes.
Special equipment - ice-axe, grampons, piton belay, the self-insurance, 3 - 4 carbines, descender.
High-altitude products - all that it is possible to eat high-altitude products on an ascention, quickly to prepare, that the weight was small and high-calorie.

Photos
Vladimir Serbenko.