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Summit ascent Khan Tengri peak.

Extreme ascensions in Central Tien-Shan in Kyrgyzstan.

«The group of clever climbers has bypassed the Everest»

The beautiful pyramid of Khan Tengri is without doubt the Jewel of the Tien Shan. It is the second highest mountain in this most northerly and remote of the great Asian mountain ranges. Among the local people, the white peaks are known as 'The Mountains of Heaven'. 
Khan Tengri was first climbed by a Soviet expedition in 1931, via the West Col and West Ridge. Since then, most of its ridges and faces have been climbed - all by Soviet teams. We offer a classical route - from the south, gaining the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. This approach is most popular among climbers. Depending upon the conditions prevailing at the time, it is likely that 3 or 4 camps will be used to climb Khan Tengri.

The brief description of route of an ascension on peak of Khan Tengri:

The beginning of an ascention from base camp «Southern Inylchek», located on left-bank (orographic) to moraine of glacier Southern Inylchek on merges of glacier Southern Inylchek with glacier the Zvezdochka which join glacier Southern Inylchek with Sounth, going down from northern slopes of peak the Pobeda. The base camp Southern Inylchek is located at height 3900 - 4000 meters above sea level.
The further route from base camp Southern Inylchek passes by the central part of glacier Southern Inylchek to camp №1 which is located at height of 4200 meters above sea level, located at merge of glacier Southern Inylchek with glacier Semenovskii on right-bank (orographic) to moraine at bottom of southern slope of peak Chapaev. Rise upwards on glacier Semenovskii in direction icefall, in head glacier is objectively dangerous because of possible collapses from peak Chapaev and peak of Khan-Tengri.
We recommend to pass this site in the early morning and without stops on rest. For hiking icefall there are two ways - «in chuck», or on slopes of peak Chapaev. The second variant faster, but dangerous than the first, because of possible snow and ice avalanches and rockfalls from slope of peak Chapaev.
We recommend to use cord between participants of an ascention, here it is lot of cracks in glacier! After passage icefall we leave in the top circus of glacier Semenovskii, the height of 5200 meters above sea level, here is camp №2.
If your acclimatization not sufficient here it is possible to stop on lodging for the night, after lodging for the night to continue an ascention to camp №3. From camp №2 it is risen on rather sloping snow-ice slopes in head in circus of glacier Semenovskii to the crosspiece between peak of Khan-Tengri and shoulder of peak Chapaev. In the left part of the crosspece at height of 5700 meters above sea level there is camp №3.
Here it is possible to establish tents, or to prepare snow caves. From camp №3 route of an ascention passes through the crosspiece and further on the western mountain ridge of Khan Tengri. The mountain ridge, route is equipped by stationary cords. Here there are often old, worn out cords - be close! A route rocky up to height of 6900 meters above sea level, further the snow dome hiking in narrow snow knife which deduces on top.
At an ascention on mountain ridges there are platforms, at heights - 6200 meters above sea level, 6400 meters above sea level, 6700 meters above sea level. Here, if necessary, it is possible to establish camp №4.
The most convenient platform for lodging for the night at height of 6400 meters above sea level. Up to height of 6700 meters above sea level rise passes on the right party of the western mountain ridge, from platform at height of 6700 meters above sea level - traverse to the right in direction couloir.
At the beginning couloir rocky wall in height of 10 meters. Further on couloir and again to the right. On rocks the output on snow mountain ridge, rests against rocky wall in height up to 20 meters. Further an output on top. At top there is tripod. The way downwards is not easier at all - on way of rise.

The base program of an ascension on peak of Khan Tengri 21 day:

1 Day. Bishkek.
Arrival in Bishkek, meeting at airport "Manas", transfer to hotel (30 km), arrival in Bishkek, transfer to hotel, accommodation, overnight.
2 Day. Bishkek - base camp "Karkara”.
Transfer: town of Bishkek - gorge Boom – town of Balykchi – town of Cholpon-Ata – natural boundary of Char-Kuduk – base camp "Karkara" (450 km). Arrival in base camp "Karkara" of 2200 meters above sea level, accommodation in tents. Overnight.
3 Day. Base camp "Karkara" - base camp "Southern Inylchek".
Flight by the helicopter: base camp "Karkara" - base camp "Southern Inylchek" 4000 meters above sea level.
4 Day. Preparation for an ascention on peak of Khan Tengri.
Akklimatization and walks, preparation for an ascention in base camp «Southern Inylchek».
5 Day. Camp 1. Merge of glacier Southern Inylchek with glacier Semenovskii.
Hiking in camp №1 at height of 4200 meters above sea level.
6 Day. Camp 2. Glacier Semenovskii.
Hiking in camp №2 at height of 5300 meters above sea level.
7 Day. Camp 3. The left part of the crosspiece under Khan Tengri.
Hiking in camp №3 at height of 5800 meters above sea level.
8 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
Returning in base camp «Southern Inylchek».
9 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
Day of rest.
10 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek".
Day of preparation for an ascention on peak of Khan Tengri.
11 Day. Merge of glacier Southern Inylchek with glacier Semenovskii.
Hiking in camp №1 at height of 4200 meters above sea level.
12 Day. Glacier Semenovskii.
Hiking in camp №2 at height of 5300 meters above sea level.
13 Day. The left part of the crosspiece under Khan-Tengri.
Hiking in camp №3 at height of 5800 meters above sea level.
14 Day. The western mountain ridge of peak of Khan-Tengri.
Hiking in camp №4 at height of 6400 meters above sea level.
15 Day. Peak of Khan-Tengri.
Ascension on top of peak of Khan-Tengri of 7010 meters above sea level and returning in camp №3 at height of 5800 meters above sea level.
16 Day. Base camp "Southern Inylchek”.
Returning in base camp «Southern Inylchek».
17 Day.
Additional day on case of bad weather.
18 Day.
Additional day on case of bad weather.
19 Day. Base camp «Southern Inylchek» - base camp "Karkara".
Flight by the helicopter: base camp «Southern Inylchek» - base camp "Karkara". Transfer to Bishkek (450 km). Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in hotel, overnight.
20 Day. Bishkek.
Free day in Bishkek.
21 Day. Departure from Bishkek.
Transfer to airport "Manas" (30 km). Depature from Bishkek.

“Full package” includes:

Meeting and seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek,
transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek,
transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back,
helicopter flight from base camp “Karkara” to base camp “South Inylchek” and back,
unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back,
accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!),
accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek“,
free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“,
consultancy service of local guide,
consultancy of doctor,
registration with local Rescue Party,
ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC,
usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service,
rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascent,
usage of fixed ropes on the route,
change of air-flight and railway tickets,
frontier zone permit,
official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed).

“Small package” includes:

helicopter flight to BC and back (it’s permitted only 30 kg per person, extra kilo costs Euro 3 /kg),
free usage of toilet and cloak-room at Base Camp “South Inylchek“,
consultancy service of local guide,
consultancy of doctor,
registration with local Rescue Party,
ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC,
usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service,
rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents,
usage of fixed ropes on the route,
change of air-flight and railway tickets,
frontier zone permit,
official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed).

The cost for both packages does not include:

The cost of Kyrgyz visa,
International flight,
All optional deviations from the main itinerary,
Beverages and meals not included in main menu,
All personal expenses (extra luggage fee, room service, medical expenses/insurance, etc.),
The services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending/descending,
The rent of mountaineering equipment,
Spirits,
A feed not included in program-a feed in base camp above camp №1, and in towns.

Cost of services of the high-mountainous guide (in Euro):

1 person – 1200
2 person – 700 per person
3 person – 550 per person

Additional services in base camps "Karkara" and " South Inylchek " (in Euro):

Rent of high-altitude tent - 65 for the program.
Accommodation in tents (in camps №1, №2, №3) - 60 for a night.
Gas bags of firm KOVEA (230) - 7 for ballon.
International call by satellite telephone - 3 for 1 minute.

Note: Cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending.

Recommended clothes and equipment for an ascention on peak of Khan Tengri:

Clothes, footwear - the standard high-altitude complete set (should be warm and qualitative then well and comfortably you feel at an ascention)ю
Equipment - tent high-altitude, sleeping bag, karemat (futon), torch, gas ballon, dishes.
Special equipment - ice-axe, grampons, piton belay, the self-insurance, 3 - 4 carbines, descender.
High-altitude products - all that it is possible to eat high-altitude products on an ascention, quickly to prepare, that the weight was small and high-calorie.

Peak of Khan Tengri.The Glacier Southern Inylchek and peak of Khan Tengri.The Glacier Southern InylchekTents of base camp Southern Inylchek.

 

Photos:
Vladimir Serbenko.