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Главная » Climbing in mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Tien-Shan mountains, Pamir in Kyrgyzstan.

Climbing in valley Karavshin.

Climbing on peaks in the Turkestani ridge.

“Not all those who wander are lost”

J.R.R. Tolkien.

Karavshin valley in Turestan ridge.

Karavshin Gorge is geographically located in Turkestan Ridge area, west to the Matcha Mountain Junction. Its administrative location area is Batken district in Batken province of Kyrgyzstan. Turkestan Ridge region (Pamir-Alai Mountains) is very similar to Patagonia in South America. There are the same windy wilderness with crystal water springs and rivers, alpine meadows and glaciers, surrounded by 5000 m peaks, and no signs of civilization there.
Here there is a great variety of any routes from simple to difficult ones for technical rock climbing and mountaineering fans! Thus, Karavshin gorge is quite popular spot among mountaineers, rock climbers and just mountain tourists.
The most famous peaks in the area are Asan Peak 4230 Meters above sea level, Usan Peak, 4810 Meters above sea level, Peak, Pyramid Peak 5509 мeters a bove sea level, Kotin Peak, Yellow Wall etc.
Numerous interesting routes and absence of crowds of people make it area the unique one!
Karavshin is the training area for the real expert mountaineers! Most of the guys who come here want either prove their climbing style or make new trails. They do it participating in some contests which are often held here. It is possible to get there by helicopter or on foot. Usually they jump off from Batken and get Vorukh village in Tajikistan.
From here you trek up along the banks of Karavshin river. For the loads transporting you may hire donkeys or horses. From Vorukh to the base camp it is 50 km or one and half days of trekking. Most part of the way goes through the torrid Karavshin canyon.
Than along Jayupaya river passing apricot orchards and abandoned stone hut you find yourself in verdant Kara Suu or Ak Suu gorges depending on which summit you plan to ascent.

The short description of a way from the town of Batken up to BC "Karavshin".

From the town of Batken up to Tadjik enclave Voruh about one hour by the machine (45 km). From settlement Voruh the gorge Karavshin begins, in the beginning which is located kyrgyz frontier post. Upstream the rivers Karavshin can be passed by the machine about 4 kilometers. Further on road there are the blockages, remained after earthquake. The cargo is overloaded on pack-train (donkeys and horses) from here begins 50 kilometer hiking.
It is necessary to go on old roads up to top, old destroyed frontier post. Further the road comes to an end and the track on which it is necessary to rise up to the thrown settlement "Top Karavshin" located at merge of the rivers Ak-Suu and the Kara-Suu begins. From merge of these rivers the river Karavshin is formed. From this place about 1,5 hours through juniper a wood up to base camp "Karavshin" in a valley of the river the Kara-Suu, or is so much up to base camp in gorge Ak-Suu.
For residing at gorge Kara-Suu it is better than a condition - the camp is located at a springs of potable water, in gorge there is not enough wind. In gorge the Kara-Suu therefore is more convenient to settle down. Time of the approach from settlement Voruh up to base camp 1,5 - 2 days, without a caravan with pack animals it is possible to reach for a day.

Rock ascensions in the Turkestan Range of Kyrgyzstan.

From BC "Karavshin" downwards on a track through juniper a wood it is necessary to reach up to sheep pen. From sheep pen upwards in a hollow, formed by two hills, comes to an end with rocks of peak Kotin. From the lowest place of the opposite party of a hollow on other party, in gorge Ak-Suu the track goes down.
By thrown sheep pen it is necessary to go upwards on gorge on the left coast of the river along walls of peak Kotin and the Millenium of the Christening of Russia. It is necessary to reach the left buttress of east wall of peak of the Millenium of a christening of Russia, to rise to the left of it up to sources stream between walls of peaks 4300 and Millenia of a christening of Russia (in droughty year of water can not be). The beginning of a route on an internal corner from a good green shelf.

The base program from Bishkek up to gorge Karavshin.

Walking tour to town of Batken from Osh.

Day 1. Bishkek.
Arrival in the town of Bishkek, a meeting at the airport, transfer to hotel, accommodation. Overnight.
Day 2. Bishkek - Batken - settlement Vorukh - gorge Karavshin (50 km).
Breakfast. Transfer to airport "Manas" (30 km). Departure to Batkena (1 hour), arrival in Batken, a meeting at the airport.
Transfer: Batken - settlement Vorukh (45 km).
The further transfer: Settlement Vorukh - gorge Karavshin - Lower dried apricot a garden (5 km).
Passage of formalities of customs and boundary service of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan at crossing of border. Hiking: Lower dried apricot a garden - the Big bridge through the river Karavshin - Middle dried apricot a garden - a frontier post - Top dried apricot a garden - the river Karavshin - a spring on coast of the rivers (13 km). Overnight in tents.
Day 3. The river Karavshin - the left inflow of the river Rtachashma - merge of the rivers Ak-Suu and the Kara-Suu - gorge of the river the Kara-Suu - BC "Karsvshin" (27 km).
Breakfast. Hiking: the river Karavshin - base camp "Karavshin" (27 km).
Days 4 - 18. Hiking. Acclimatization and ascentions on tops in vicinities of BC "Karavshin".
Day 19. Base camp "Karavshin" - gorge of the river the Kara-Suu - merge of the rivers Ak-Suu and the Kara-Suu - the left inflow of the river Rtachashma - the river Karavshin (22 km).
Breakfast. Hiking: base camp "Karavshin" - the river Karavshin. Overnight in tents.
Day 20. The river Karavshin - Lower dried apricot a garden - settlement Vorukh - town of Batken - town of Bishkek (72 km).
Breakfast. Hiking: the river Karavshin - Lower dried apricot a garden (22 km).
Transfer: Lower dried apricot a garden - the town of Batken (50 km).
Passage of formalities of customs and boundary service of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan at crossing of border.
Arrival in the town of Batken, transfer to the airport, deparure in Bishkek (1 hour).
Arrival in Bishkek, a meeting at the airport, transfer to hotel (30 km), accommodation.
A free time, overnight.
Day 21. Bishkek.
Departure from Bishkek.

Ascentions which can be mountaineer in vicinities of BC "Karavshin" in Turkestan ridge on nearby peaks:

Yellow wall of 3800 meters above sea level,
Kotin (5 A category of complexity) 4521 meters above sea level,
1000 of a Christening of Russia (6 and - 6 A category of complexity) 4507 meters above sea level,
Asan (6 - 6 A category of complexity) 4230 meters above sea level,
Usen 4378 meters above sea level,
Slesov (6 A category of complexity) 4240 meters above sea level,
Kara-Suu 5309 meters above sea level,
Pyramidal (5 A category of complexity) 5509 meters above sea level.

«The full package» include in the price of the program of base camp "Karavshin":
Flight Bishkek – Batken – Bishkek and back (please note that local airlines allow only 15 kg free of charge luggage! Extra kilo costs about Euro 0,5), Accommodation in double tents (on 2 persons in one tent), Permit to visiting of a zone of the boundary control and registration in OVIR, Rent of radio station, Meetings - accompanying service at departure in/from the airport,  Using tent-dining room, Transfer the town of Batken - settlement Voruh\pass Saryaz and back, Accommodation in hotels with a breakfast (no more than 4 nights) in hotels of the town of Bishkek and Batken, Rent of radio stations, Electric illumination in base camp (generator), Services housekeeping staff of base camp "Karavshin" - the cook, the chief of base camp. 

In cost of the program «The Full package» it is not included:

Cost of the Kyrgyz visa, International flights, Alcoholic drinks, All personal charges (for additional payment of luggage, service in the rooms of hotels, medical charges,   the insurance, cargo in planes, etc.), Personal and group climbing equipment for ascentions.

The price of services in base camp "Karavshin" (in $ USA):
75 for transportation of a cargo one donkey from settlement Voruh or pass Saryaz in base camp "Karavshin", no more 30 kg of a cargo on one donkey.

Photos by
Alexander Petrov.

Savelyev Igor Borisovich, Lopukhin Olga Aleksandrovna, Shumbasov Alexander Anatolevich.