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Glade Suloev on Fortambek.

Mountain Climbing Tours in Tajikistan.

“I love life: danger to me is just a way to give meaning to life”

Gilles Delamar.

Mountain hiking tours on Pamir mountains.

So here they are, the upper reaches of Fortambek! I can confidently say that not often the base camp of the expedition can be located in such a picturesque meadow. A huge green lawn, where the helicopter easily lands, and very close by are two-kilometer walls, on which snow and ice landslides rattle every now and then.
From the moraine hillock, at the same time, the tops of half of all Soviet 7000 meters are visible - both the peak of Communism and the peak of Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, as well as peaks: Leningrad, the 30th anniversary of the Soviet state, Abalakov, Oshanin, Borodino.
The highest peaks of the country were conquered many years ago, but how many unpunished six-thousanders are still in the Pamirs ?! For example, a man has recently reached the highest point of this beautiful peak.
True, climbers have attempted to climb Kirov peak from the Pamir fir plateau before, but did not reach the top. In the summer of 1970, Donetsk climbers decided to make the climb to this peak, as champions of the country of the previous season.
Their path was more complicated than through the firn plateau. Alexey Alekseenko, Victor Rusanov, Petr Zhelobotkin and three Boris - Sivtsov, Shaposhnikov and Ivanov began their journey right from the base of the peak, from Fortambek glacier.
And they dealt with the mountain, although they came to the base camp two weeks later as from a good battle, beaten, scratched, terribly tired. And their path was recognized as the route of the highest category of difficulty.
This is the peak of Kirov. And this is Moscow peak, one of the highest and most beautiful peaks of our country. Its mark is 6785 m above sea level, the height of the visible part of the mountain, i.e. not from the sea level, but from the Turamys glacier - more than two and a half kilometers.
From this side, from the north, nobody has yet climbed to the peak of Moscow. Huge ice discharges block possible ascent paths. Sometimes a white death - an avalanche - makes its cold walk along the walls of the peak.
They, these avalanches and landslides, feed on the Turamys glacier, one of the sources of a large glacier, which is the famous Fortambek. True, people have already climbed the peak of Moscow from the opposite side (they were Georgian climbers), but if in the coming years someone dares to go along the wall that looks towards Fortambek, then you can be sure that daredevils will occupy a very high position in the national championship a place.
And here is the peak of the Parachutists. It is notable for the fact that it is through it that the route of everyone who decided to climb the Pamir firn plateau along the simplest path passes. To the left after rising to the east, a huge snow field leaves for ten kilometers.
More details about the plateau are described in one of the following essays, and the only thing left to add to the peak of the Parachutists is that he got his name in honor of the six Soviet paratroopers who jumped on the firn plateau and descended through this very peak.
Now in the climbing world, the parking lot in the upper reaches of Fortambek is called the Suloev Glade in memory of the master of sports in mountaineering and tourism, who died in these places when climbing the peak of Communism.
At the edge of the meadow there is a grave with several wreaths in black ribbons and an ice ax at the head. Nearby friends created a monument: on a flat surface of a multi-cubic monolith in large bronze letters and numbers laid out "VALENTIN SULOEV, 1933 - 1968".
The right of the stone monument is another memorial structure. True, the one whose name is indicated here has not yet been found. Two slate plates are made perpendicularly, cemented. In the corner between them is an ice hook.
Blue paint on the vertical wall says: "Yuri Nazarov, Aug 1937 - 1968", on the horizontal - "a single climber who died while climbing the peak of Communism." This is the same Nazarov whom we met in July the year before last on the Kara-glacier glacier, when we got to the foot of the Korzhenevskaya peak.
Then on the trail we suddenly saw fresh tracks. Sneakers. Then, when they went out onto the glacier, there were traces of trikoni, but the boots weren’t very good, there were only two trikoni on one heel. They go in the same direction as we do.
Has anyone else arrived in the same area?"
Ahead above the stones a haze appeared.
... Sits, bandages the leg with an elastic bandage, says, walked up, pulled.
... - From Moscow.
“Why alone?”
“They were gathered by the company, then the rest decided that it was too expensive, and did not go.”
- You would, man, leave this venture and go downstairs.
- No ... I went so far ...
One of our group lit a cigarette. Yura behaved uneasily:
“I thought,” he says, “I’ll give up smoking here, yes, apparently, I won’t succeed.” Give me a cigarette. And I wanted to be alone ... It doesn’t work out yet: the helicopter flew several times a day, now people ...
He ate with us with appetite - after all, we have all the products that are natural, but he, although he has a huge backpack, has only concentrates. Hurried to Muks, there, at the cableway, some of his products are hidden. He kept the further way to Fortambek.
And here is a meeting at Fortambek ... "A single climber who died...".

"The peaks of my republic." Mashkov V. Publishing house "Irfon", Dushanbe, 1978. Circulation of 20,000 copies.