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Climbing routes to Khan Tengri Peak.


Classic route to Khan Tengri Peak.
“We walk alone in an empty and dark world,
Cold whiteness fades.
But through the whirlwind, with an intermittent dotted line,
The climbing chain is visible!
There is light at home and a map in the corner.
Warm. The window is shuttered.
A red chain winds across the map,
Crossing out the white spot!
Syrym Kuderin. "Photo".
Climbing Khan Tengri Peak from Southern Inylchek glacier.
Climbing routes from north to Khan Tengri Peak:
The Northern Inylchek glacier is the most popular among climbers, firstly, it offers a beautiful view of the regular Khan Tengri pyramid, it was from Northern Inylchek that the first ascent of Khan Tengri was made, the route is now considered a classic one.
The northern side of Khan Tengri is steeper than the southern side, but is the safest in terms of ice collapses and avalanches.
1. Khan-Tengri along North-Eastern edge of shoulder of Chapaev Peak, 5A.
2. Khan-Tengri along the Eastern buttress of Northern ridge, 5B (Benkin, 75).
3. Khan-Tengri along Eastern buttress of Northern Wall, 6A (Khudyakov, 70).
4. Khan-Tengri along right Eastern buttress of Northern Wall, 6A.
5. Khan-Tengri along left buttress of the center of Northern Wall, 6A.
6. Khan-Tengri along Northern Ridge, 5B (Studenin, 68).
3. Khan-Tengri along Northern Ridge, 5B (Kuzmin, 64).
4. Khan-Tengri in center of Northern Wall, 6A (Myslovsky, 74).
5. Khan-Tengri on right side of Northern wall, 6A.
6. Khan-Tengri in center of Northern Wall, 6A (Myslovsky, 74).
7. Khan-Tengri in center of Northern Wall, 6A (Studenin, 74).
8. Khan-Tengri along left buttress of center of the Northern Wall, 6A.
9. Khan-Tengri on right side of Northern Wall, 6A.
10. Khan-Tengri on left side of Northern Wall, 6A.
11. Khan-Tengri in center of Northern Wall, 6A (Koroteev, 86).
Climbing routes from west, south, east to Khan Tengri peak:
1. Khan-Tengri along South-Western slope, 5A.
2. Khan-Tengri along North-Eastern edge of shoulder of Chapaev Peak, 5A.
5. Khan-Tengri along left side of South-Western bastion and South-Western edge, 5B.
6. Khan-Tengri along South-Western slope and left side of South-Western ridge, 5B.
7. Khan-Tengri along buttress of Eastern wall and South-Eastern ridge, 5B.
8. Khan-Tengri along Eastern buttress of Northern ridge, 5B (Benkin, 75).
9. Khan-Tengri along Eastern buttress of Northern Wall, 6A (Khudyakov, 70).
10. Khan-Tengri along right Eastern buttress of Northern wall, 6A.
11. Khan-Tengri along South Wall, 6A.
12. Khan-Tengri along South-Western buttress of South-Western ridge, 6A.
13. Khan-Tengri in center of Eastern Wall, 6A (Darmin, 88).
14. Khan-Tengri on right side of Eastern Wall, 6A.
15. Khan-Tengri in center of Eastern Wall, 6A (Shustrov, 87).
Authority:
http://wiki.risk.ru/index.php/%D0%A5%D0%B0%D0%BD-%D0%A2%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B3%D1%80%D0%B8
Photos by:
Alexander Petrov.







