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Peak Lenin.

Сlimbing tour Pamit mountains Kyrgyzstan.

“Every mountain top is within reach if you just keep climbing” 

Barry Finlay. «Kilimanjaro and Beyond».

Rock-climbing tour peak Lenin.

Lenin Peak, 7134 meters above sea level, is located in the central part, in the main ridge of the Zaalai Range in the northeastern Pamirs, in the Chon-Alai region of the Osh region of the Kyrgyz Republic and in the Murgab region of the Gorno-Badakhshan region of Tajikistan.
The northern slopes of Lenin Peak are located on the territory of the Kyrgyz Republic, the southern slopes are on the territory of Tajikistan, the state border passes along the ridge. In the west, the peak connects with Dzerzhinsky peak, 6713 meters above sea level, in the east, through the Krylenko pass, 5820 meters above sea level, with the crest of Unity peak, 6673 meters above sea level.
In the south, in the spur of the Lenin Peak massif, there is Peak 6852, named after Marshal Zhukov in 1974 (Ratsek, 1974). From the northern slopes of the Lenin Peak massif, the glacier of the same name flows down with western and eastern sources, 9 kilometers long, with the western source being the main one.
Glaciers Big (in the east) and Small (in the west) Saukdara flow down from the southern slopes of the summit. The steepness of the slopes reaches 45 - 55°. The slopes are cut by deep cracks. Snow avalanches and ice falls are frequent.
The massif of Lenin Peak, like all the northern slopes of the Zaalai Range, is composed of limestones, shales and sandstones. The top of Lenin Peak is well visible from any panorama point of the Eastern and South-Western Pamirs and Alai Range.
The peak was first discovered and described in 1871 by the outstanding Russian geographer and traveler Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko, who named it in honor of Konstantin Petrovich Kaufman. In 1928 the peak was renamed Lenin Peak.
Until 1933, this peak was considered the highest peak of the Pamirs and the USSR, until after the ascent it was found that the mountain, called Communism Peak, at that moment (until 1962) was called Stalin Peak, 7495 meters high above sea level, is higher than the peak Lenin.
On July 4, 2006, by a decree of the Government of Tajikistan, Lenin Peak was renamed the peak named after Abu Ali ibn Sina. On October 26, 2017, the President of Kyrgyzstan Almazbek Atambayev, by his decree, recommended to the deputies of the Jogorku Kenesh to adopt a law on renaming Lenin Peak to Manas Peak.
At the moment, there are more than 16 climbing routes to the top. Nine on the south slope and seven on the north. The slopes of Lenin Peak are not very steep, almost all routes to the summit are snow-ice and have a 5A category of difficulty.
Only, on the steep south-eastern wall facing the Bolshaya Saukdara glacier, there are routes of 5B category of difficulty. At the top of Lenin Peak there is a wide plateau that rises slightly to the south. The highest point is located on the southern edge of this plateau near the tour, the so-called "southern peak".
However, most climbers are limited to visiting the tour in the northern part of the plateau.
First ascents to Lenin Peak.
A Soviet-German expedition to the Pamirs is being organized. One of the goals of which was to study the Zaalai Range and its main peak, discovered by A.P. Fedchenko and considered at that time the highest point of the USSR.
In September, after completing the main work of the expedition, its German participants decided to attempt an ascent. The route of the ascent was established in the summer. Future climbers had to penetrate into the upper reaches of the Saukdara River along the southern slope of the Zaalai Range.
Having reached the source of the river, three German climbers - E. Allwein, E. Schneider and K. Wien (E. Allwein, E. Schneider, K. Wien) - began to move along the Bolshoi Saukdara glacier. On September 25, they set out from the saddle in the Zaalaysky ridge with a height of 5820 meters above sea level (later called the Krylenko Pass) and reached the summit of Lenin Peak at 15.30 along the eastern ridge.
A new attack on the summit, this time from the north, from the Achik-Tash gorge, south of the Alaai valley, along the western branch of the Lenin glacier. On September 8, three people climbed to the top, through the rocks, which later received the name of Lipkin: Kasyan Chernukha, Vitaly Abalakov and Ivan Lukin.
Eight climbers led by Lev Barkhash reach the summit. This was the third ascent.
Twelve climbers of the Turkestan military district reached the summit of Lenin Peak on August 14. It was the first post-war ascent.
300 people climbed to the top. The ascent was timed to coincide with the 50th anniversary of the USSR, this is one of the most massive ascents.
On July 23, an AN-2 aircraft of the Tajik Civil Aviation Administration, piloted by Alexander Mikhailovich Shirikalov, landed in the clearing of the Achik-Tash tract. The flight was carried out on the instructions of the air ambulance station serving the anniversary alpiniade to Lenin Peak.
On July 27, for the first time in the history of world parachuting, a paratrooper of Soviet paratroopers landed. 46 people took part in the jump: 36 conscripts and 10 aces paratroopers. The unique action took place at the intersection of scientific and technical discoveries, took place under the strict guidance of the military and promised to become a world sensation.
This is what would have happened if the tragedy had not happened. Four paratroopers were killed: foreman Vladimir Mekaev, private Yuri Yumatov, senior sergeant Valery Glagolev, instructor Vyacheslav Tomarovich.
Valentin Suloev makes the first descent on skis from the top of Lenin Peak.
In the tract Achik-Tash, the first international climbing camp (MAL) is being organized.
When trying to traverse Lenin Peak, eight female climbers die (leader Elvira Shataeva). Almost the entire women's team of the USSR in mountaineering.
The biggest mountaineering tragedy in the history of this peak. As a result of the earthquake, a powerful snow and ice landslide descended from the slopes of Lenin Peak to the camp at a height of 5400 meters above sea level ("Skovoroda"), which claimed the lives of 43 people.
ix Russian paratroopers made a successful landing on the top of Lenin Peak.
Geographic coordinates of Lenin Peak: N39°20'51.70" E72°52'43.33"

Alexander Petrov.

Photos by
Alexander Petrov.