Climbing tours in Northern Tien-Shan

Tops of Northern Tien-Shan.

Sights of mountains of Northern Tien-Shan.

Climbing tours in Northern Tien-Shan.

In mountaineering, if] we look for private experience rather than public history, even getting to the top becomes an optional narrative rather than the main point, and those who only wander in high places become part of the story”

Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust «A History of Walking».

Mountain climbing and trekking in Northern Tien-Shan.

For climbers in the ridge Zaiiliysky Ala-Tau which is one of ridges of Northern Tien-Shan can be allocated usually three mountainous areas: Left, Middle and Right Talgar. In the South and the East of a riverhead the Left Talgar limits the main ridge Zailiysky Ala-Tau. After A. Berezovsky peak the ridge extends on the East where there is Dmitriyev glacier.
Over strongly glacier of the ridge tops rise: K. Ovcharova (4230 m), two trapezoidal tops of E. Abalakov (4468 m and 4332 m), then top of CSKA (4434 m). Further the powerful peak of the Constitution (4580 m) towers, it is boldly allocated thanks to a pyramidal form.
Between peaks of CSKA and the Constitution there is Dmitriyev top (4510 m), the form reminds a tent. The crest of top is extended in the meridional direction and is the beginning of the Chilik-Keminsk crossing point connecting the ridges Zailiysky and Kungey Ala-Tau.
The short, high spur of the Constitution divides Dmitriyev glaciers and Constitutions. There are tops Karakaursyn (A black feather) - 4404 m of Zhanatau (New top) - 4242 m and top Leningrad - 4015 m. Further on the northeast of peak of the Constitution Ivan Miroshkin peak and the plateau top of a name of the 10 anniversary of Kazakhstan (4526 m) are known.
Between them from the Constitution glacier on a glacier Dzhangyryk. The northern spur of top of the 10 anniversary of Kazakhstan differentiates glaciers of the Constitution and Toguzak. In a middle part it has rocky top - Inetau peak (4038 m).
The ridge of Zailiysky Ala-Tau the northeast of tops represents the wide snow plateau, hollow going down towards a glacier Dzhangyryk and Toguzak goes down on the North to a glacier. Over it Muztau top (4556 m) towers.
Between beautiful rocky peak the Soviet Kazakhstan (4464 m) and top Toguzak (4444 m) is available Popov pass (4294 m) - difficult, through it there passes the closest way from river upper courses the Left Talgar to river Dzhangyryk sources.
From Muryntau top (4510 m) the ridge accepts the northern direction, to the East the powerful ridge of Zhusandy Kungey departs. Through the pass Toguzak (4283 m) is a way from a glacier on an enormous glacier the Athlete, behind the pass the destroyed Konrtau top (4443 m) behind whom the anonymous, not conquered yet peaks 4555 m, 4536 m, 4568 m high, and Kolesnik peak (4548 m), the Left Talgar tower rises.
Two tops tower over side ridges. It is top of 4455 m and the Southern Athlete. From Stalsky top the ridge turns on the East, in the meridional direction the New spur 25 km long which is a watershed between the rivers the Left and Middle Talgar departs from it. It Kishkenetau tops (4307 m), Jambyl (4355 m) decorate, TEU (4240 m), Koptau (4152 m), the Dynamo member (4193 m).
Damalaktau (4250 l), Strelok (m Z900). Anniversary (3941 m) in Fizik (3850 m). On a northern slope of this top the freezing of the New spur comes to an end. Numerous decreases in a crest with passes; from them the most convenient TEU (4020 m), and Tekke (3750 m), conduct from the valley Left to Middle Talgar valley.
The first large the ridge is in its beginning. Here on the West the ridge of Frunze with top (4420 m) and peak of KAZTAG (4334 m) departs. In a branching of this ridge glaciers Marble and Frunze lie. Range Frunze, branches, a northwest part has two more rocky tops - Bezbozhnik (4360 m) and Anonymous (about 4150 m).
The short western spur of peak of Kishkenetau divides Stalsky glaciers and Jambyl. In Koptau top there is the second branching of the New ridge, Tagiltsev and Rusakov forms glaciers. Here the beautiful ice peak of a name of the academician of Kurchatov (about 4100 m) topped with two rocky obelisks is known.
On the East the New ridge short ridges, limit trailing valleys of glaciers Northern and Southern TEU, Damalaktau. Solar, Strelok and Anniversary. Among these spurs only two (around TEU glacier) have tops: Karatas (4055 m) and Sypuchay (4206 m).
Sources of the river of Average Talgar from the South and the East are closed by the main ridge of Zailiysky Ala-Tau, forms Shakalsky glacier and reaches in this region of the maximum heights and a freezing. Four short ridges form five glaciers of Shakalsky, the first of them from the West reminds a rocky saw with top, a name of the first Kazakh scientist Chokan Valikhanov (4294 m).
Powerful spurs depart on the southeast. A spur to Issyktenchokh Akgyul (4500 m), Belyi peak (4700 m), to Issyktenchokh (4850 m), Vsevobuch (4550 m) and several anonymous tops divides glaciers of Bogatyr and Korzhenevsky, in it tops.
The spur HDGME (Head Department of General Military Education) has GUVVO tops (4550 m) and Egiztau (4500 m). To the north of the pass North (4523 m) the ridge gets a northeast referral, its height sharply increases, reaching height of 4754 m in an ice pyramid of Aktau.
The northwest ridge of the same name separates Shakalsky glacier from Kroshka glacier. In it three interesting tops - Dmitry Salanov (4406 m), Chekist (4408 m) and Karaulchitau (4365 m). After the difficult pass Aktyuz (4450 m) towers Trud peak (4650 m) known for the western wall.
Terribly the Talgar massif (5017 m) towering over all surrounding tops looks. If to look at the Talgar massif from the northwest, then its trapezoidal outline clearly is visible. Slopes of the Talgar massif steep. The western wall reaching nearly one and a half kilometers in height is especially grandiose.
Southwest and northeast slopes five hundred meter rise over snow fields of a glacier of Korzhenevsky, the largest on northern Tien-Shan. Its length - 12 km. In two short spurs, departs on the West, Klyshtau tops (4268 m), Abay of Kunanbayev (4381 to) and Ushbastau (4274 m) tower.
They differentiate small side valleys in which there are glaciers South Talgar, Northern Talgar and Copr. Between glaciers of Copr and Lake the small ridge with Sportivnaya top (4000 m) was stretched. From three southeast spurs forming Korzhenevsky glacier only the most southern has considerable tops - Southeast Talgar (4841 m) and Gorin peak (4760 m).