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Ascensions mountaineering to Lenin peak.

Summit ascent on Pamir mountains.

"Danger gives a savor to mountain climbing"

In Kyrgyzstan is three peaks in height more than seven thousand meters above sea level. On Pamir in Alai a ridge there is Lenin peak in height of 7134 meters above sea level. It is the most accessible and easy of three peaks above seven thousand meters for an ascention.
The classical route ascent to Lenin peak has no technical complexities and does not demand special technical equipment except for crampons, ski poles and ice-axe. Advantages of an ascention to Lenin peak that base camp "Achik-Tash" is on a green glade at height of 3600 meters above sea level that promotes the best rest, acclimatization and preparation of an organism before the basic ascention on top.
We remind, that an ascention on 5000 - 6000 meters, much more difficultly, than on 3000 meters. Good acclimatization is a half of success! Variants of acclimatization - much. It is possible to make simple routes of ascentions in gorges Ala-Archa or Karakol, is better to lead a lodging for the night at height above 4000 meters. It is necessary to pick up a comfortable command for you mountaineers, at least, which do not irritate you below.
At an ascention there can be problems between climbers. The skilled person in a command is very well: it will not panic and will help you kind advice and will tell that it is necessary to do during the most necessary moment.

Classical route of an ascention to Lenin peak.

Base camp “Achik-Tash” is situated on a raised meadow between two steep river valleys. The ground is a carpet of wild garlic and alpine flowers. From Base Camp we head over the Puteshestvennikov (Traveller) Pass 4400 meters above sea level. The ascent usually takes 1 - 1.5 hours by a good path. Sometimes there is snow on the pass. Then we descend to the left moraine of the Lenin glacier. Further we should cross the river carefully.
The best time for crossing is early morning, as the river rises rapidly throughout at this time. Across the left moraine of glacier to the Lenin glacier at 4100 meters above sea level and hike to camp № 1 at 4400 meters above sea level above sea level.
From Camp № 1 4400 meters above sea level, we cross the dry Lenin Glacier and ascend the long snow slopes which run directly to the summit (north face). At 5000 meters above sea level we traverse to the west and, ascending gently, we arrive at the rim of a large snow basin. We cross this, traversing beneath Razdelny Peak. A short climb up a scree and snow slope leads to Camp 2 “4200”.
There are a few crevasses on this section of the route but it is straightforward snow plodding. It is, however, a long and tiring day, and an early start is needed to avoid the worst effects of the sun. Directly above camp 2 is an easy-angled couloir which leads to the north ridge of Razdelny Peak 6148 meters above sea level. Initially the ridge is almost level, but as we approach Razdelny Peak the angle steeples.
The final 400 meter climb to the summit of Razdelny Peak is straight-forward but the effects of altitude make it hard work. The views from the summit are superb. To the north we can finally get the true perspective of the Alai Plain while to the south there are a multitude of snowy peaks.
Peak Communism and Korzhenevsky dominate our view of the south Pamirs. Further east the Wakhan and Hindu Kush are clearly visible, and on a good day it is possible to make out Tirich Mir. From Razdelny Peak the ridge dog-legs to the west and drops down 100 meters to Razdelnay Pass at 6000 meters above sea level above sea level. It is here that we will make camp  № 3.
From camp № 3 the whole of the summit ridge is visible. From here we will have two options. Either we climb directly to the summit and back to camp 3 in one long day, or we place a fourth camp at about 6400 meters above sea level. From Camp III “Skovoroda” 5300 meters above sea level we follow the broad ridge to a plateau (the site of camp 4) at 6400 meters above sea level.
We traverse this back to the ridge proper where it steepens to form a short step which is turned on the north side. Above this the ridge is broken and rocky until we reach a large snow plateau. We traverse this and rejoin the ridge just below the summit.
The summit at 7134 meters above sea level meters is crowned by a number of plaques, including one of Lenin himself. The views, as you would expect, are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata and Kongur in China. Further in the distance is the Hindu Kush and further west still the Karakoram.

Base program to climbing Lenin peak.

Summit ascent Kyrgyzstan.

Day 1. City of Osh.
Arrival in the city of Osh, transfer to hotel, accommodation, overnight.
Day 2. Osh - Base Camp Achiktash (275 km).
Traansfer: city of Osh – settlement of Gulcha – pass Taldyk of 3615 meters above sea level - Sary-Tash settlement of 3200 meters above sea level - valley Achik-Tash of 3600 meters above sea level.
Day 3. Base Camp Achiktash.
Acclimatization climbing to peak of Petrovsky 4830 meters above sea level, return to the base camp Achiktash. Preparation for ascension in the base camp Achiktash.
Day 4. Base Camp Achiktash - camp No. 1.
Hiking: Base Camp Achiktash - Camp No. 1 4400 of meters above sea level.
Day 5. Camp No. 1.
Acclimatization climbing to peak of Domashniy 4700 meters above sea level, return to Camp No. 1. Preparation for an climbing to Camp No. 2.
Day 6. Camp No. 1 - Camp No. 2. 
Hiking: Camp No. 1 4400 of meters over level - Camp No. 2 5300 of meters above sea level.
Day 7. Camp No. 2 - Camp No. 3. 
Hiking: Camp No. 2 5300 of meters above sea level - Camp No. 3 6200 of meters above sea level.
Day 8. Camp No. 3 - Camp No. 1. 
Hiking: Camp No. 3 6200 of meters above sea level - Camp No. 1 4400 of meters above sea level.
Day 9. Camp No. 1 - Base Camp Achiktash. 
Hiking: Camp No. 1 4400 of meters above sea level - Base Camp Achiktash of 3600 meters above sea level.
Day 10 - 11. Reserve day and day of rest.
Day 12. Preparation for ascension in the base camp Achiktash.
Day 13. Base Camp Achiktash - Camp No. 1.
Hiking: Base Camp Achiktash - Camp No. 1 4400 of meters above sea level.
Day 14. Camp No. 1 - Camp No. 2. 
Hiking: Camp No. 1 4400 of meters over level - Camp No. 2 5300 of meters above sea level.
Day 15. Camp No. 2 - Camp No. 3. 
Hiking: Camp No. 2 5300 of meters above sea level - Camp No. 3 6200 of meters above sea level.
Day 16. Camp No. 3 - Lenin Peak - Camp No. 3. 
Camp No. 3 6200 of meters above sea level – climbing Lenin Peak of 7 134 meters above sea level. Return to the camp No. 3 6200 of meters above sea level.
Day 17. Camp No. 3 - Camp No. 1. 
Hiking: Camp No. 3 6200 of meters above sea level – Camp No. 1 4400 of meters hell sea level.
Day 18. Camp No. 1 - Base Camp Achiktash. 
Hiking: Camp No. 1 4400 of meters above sea level - Base Camp Achiktash of 3600 meters above sea level.
Day 19. Day of rest.
Day 20. Base camp Achiktash - Osh.
Transfer: Base Camp Achiktash - Osh (275 km). Arrival in Osh, accommodation in hotel. Free time. Overnight.
Day 21. Departure from Osh.

The notice:
Bring to notice, that the provisional base program is recommended only for your successful ascention. At an ascention there can be unforeseen situations with a command, with weather changing. The base program includes some additional days of rest and reserve day. In the rest you can use the schedule of an ascention and acclimatization.

Dates of arrivals from the town of Osh in base camp «Achik-Tash» in 2019:

July: 2, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 19, 21, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 31.
August: 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 11, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 25, 27.

Dates of departures from base camp «Achik-Tash» in the town of Osh in 2019:

July: 3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 20,  22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 31.
August: 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31.