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Home » Almaty region nature. Bayankol gorge is its unique sights and travels.

Peak Uzlovaya. Meridional ridge.

Climbing to mountains peaks of Kazakhstan.

"The colors of mountain sunsets are bright and unique - now scarlet, purple, crimson and crimson, now full of a regal shine, when it seems that the floor of the sky is flooded with molten gold."

Konstantin Rototaev.

Climbing routes in Bayankol gorge.

Peak Uzlovaya is located at an altitude of 4910 meters above sea level, located in the northern part of the main ridge of the Meridional ridge in the Narynkol district of the Almaty region. The summit is located in the southwest at a distance of 1.3 kilometers (in a straight line) from the Pogranichnik summit, which is also located in the ridge of the Meridional ridge.
3.2 kilometers southeast of the Chinese pass, from which the ascents in the Meridional ridge of the Bayankol gorge begin. The summit is snowy, domed. When approaching from the Chinese Pass, there are several cracks in front of the summit.
A snow ridge runs along the summit from northeast to southwest. There is also a transverse crack on the southwest side of the summit. A glacier descends from the summit to the northwest, giving rise to the Vostochny Bayankol glacier with a length of 6.1 kilometers.
The state border between the Republic of China and the Republic of Kazakhstan passes through the top. The summit is intermediate for climbing the ridge ridge to the Marble Wall peak along the classic route. The summit is rarely used for independent ascents, for the most part it serves as an intermediate traverse of the Meridional ridge to the summit of the Marble Wall.
From the history of the conquest of Uzlovaya peak.
The first attempt to climb the Marble Wall peak was made in 1935 by Soviet climbers under the leadership of E.S. Levin. The group reached an altitude of 5000 - 5300 meters above sea level, but the avalanche, which partially covered the tents on the slope, forced the climbers to retreat.
On August 28, at 15:00 1946, a group of climbers consisting of seven Soviet climbers: V.S. Naumenko, E.V. Timashev, V.F. Gusev and V.I. Nikolsky, A.S. Mukhin and A.I. Ivanov and I.S. Daibog made their first ascent to the top of the Marble Wall.
Ascent route: Lower camp 3950 meters above sea level - Uzlovaya peak 5070 meters above sea level - Pogranichnik peak 5250 meters above sea level - Marble wall peak 6150 meters above sea level. The expedition was organized by the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the USSR.
The expedition was also attended by: the head of the expedition - corresponding member of the Academy of Medical Sciences prof. A.A. Letavet, engineer S.G. Uspensky and the expedition doctor - professor N.A. Fedorov.
Geographic coordinates of Uzlovaya peak: N42 ° 19'11.78 "E80 ° 17'05.24"

Alexander Petrov.

Photos by
Sergei Mikhalkov, Almaty city.